|
England December 1996 Sunday, December 1, 1996 One
thing is clear -- the only possible downside to the daytime flight to
Europe is boredom in the air. Getting
out early on the busiest travel day of the year was a piece of cake,
even if it meant sharing the American terminal with the San Juan flights. On board I risked sleeping for a couple of
hours, then was pleased to find that a tailwind brought us in an hour
early. Evening at Heathrow is
quiet -- I had only carry-on bags so I sailed through and grabbed the
last -- 8:49pm -- Airbus into Victoria.
Can you imagine NY closing up so early?
From Victoria I found the Eccleston Hotel about three blocks
away. It’s very pleasant, a twin room with two beds, thank you, unlike
the Savoy Palace. The budget
aspect is the bath, one of those pre-fab bathroom-in-a-corner jobs. Triangular shower one half the size of me.
What on earth would a normal sized person do?
I made a nice cuppa tea and was off to sleep by 11pm. Monday, December 2 Woke
up to a lovely clear day with reasonably mild temperatures. Woke up also feeling totally adjusted time-wise.
A nice bennie of the daytime flight schedule.
Breakfasted at the hotel then walked over to Westminster.
Big Ben looks particularly spiffy with fresh gilding so I crossed
over the bridge and admired all from the south bank as the sun went
in and out of clouds. From there
I walked up to Leicester Square for tickets to John Gabriel Borkman
with Eileen Atkins, Paul Scofield, and Vanessa Redgrave.
(Oh my!) Lunch at Covent
Garden then tube to Hyde Park for a walk along Rotten Row before turning
down to Knightsbridge. Skipped
Harrods but browsed along the stores before pulling into Richoux for
a lovely tea. Back
to the hotel for mission impossible:
washing my hair in that mini shower.
Amazingly I succeeded without getting violent or flooding the
entire room. Truly a miracle. Light dinner at the hotel then tube to the
theater. Ibsen
play and a rather dreary, seriously dysfunctional family of characters. All impressive, but it never took off. Scofield in particular seem monotone and stilted.
Redgrave somewhat mannered.
Atkins grim. All could be analyzed as right for the various
characters, but deadening all the same for the audience. This is, however, carping. Lots of fun lines (Ibsen surprised me!), clean
set, good pace, crystal clear natural voices, and solid enjoyment. Home
across Waterloo Bridge with glorious floodlit visions of St. Paul’s. I’ll come back with the camera if there’s another
nice evening. Longish walk along
the Strand to tube and home to tea and bed. Tuesday, December 6 Rainy
morning and windy. I strolled
over to Westminster Abbey in mid-morning for yet another tour of the
worlds most over-the-top memorial park.
I always feel new there and always enjoy it, but I CAN remember
memorials from somewhere below the conscious level of knowing where
the plaques and tombs are. Then
tubed to Leicester Square for tickets, Cherry Orchard for tonight and
Art for tomorrow. Some browsing
along the bookstores then lunch in Covent Garden.
After lunch, even though the rain was gone, I went to the National
Theatre Museum. Thoroughly enjoyable.
Costumes and memorabilia, stage make-up exhibit, and a show on
the Wind in the Willows production of a couple of years ago.
Lots of fun. Afterwards
I missed tea, but walked across Waterloo Bridge and along the south
bank for dazzling night views of St. Paul’s and Big Ben. All the way guided by the festooned lights lining the walk. Back across at Westminster and tube home. Cherry
Orchard was super: Alec McCowen,
Penelope Wilton, David Troughton, Kate Duchene. Dandy. One query: Is lack of heat a prime way to keep London
theater ticket costs down? Brrr. Wednesday, December 4 Lovely
day. Sunny and upbeat. Tubed to Waterloo and walked along the south
bank -- happy strolling -- to the Globe.
I’d though only to snap some pictures, but of course I took the
tour again. More is completed
than a year ago, they’ve finished most everything but the stage section,
but more scaffolding around for finishing work in process. It’s going to be such a kick when it opens. The guide described this year’s test performances
with such excitement, audience in full view, hissing, hooting and hollering
with full participation. They’re
even talking about opening in June with Henry V. I’d kill to be here. From
there I wandered the couple of blocks to the original site of the Globe,
now the service yard of a brewery.
Then on to the Anchor, an olde riverside pub.
I ate upstairs in the real restaurant and had a delicious and
charming meal. Much better than the touristy pub lunch I’d
expected. On
afterwards past a replica of the Golden Hind parked in a cul de sac. Still strolling in sunlight, then across Tower
Bridge. Tubed to Knightsbridge
for another tea at Richoux, then a walk in evening dark through Belgrave
Square and Eaton Place back to the hotel. Changed
and headed out to the theater. L(Guess
what? Who needs dinner?) Art. Brilliant.
Tom Courtney, Albert Finney, Ken Scott.
Written by Yasmin Reza. Three
men, friends, one buys an all-white painting, leads to modern art, deconstructionism,
friendships unraveling, a brilliant riff on wedding invitations, more
disintegrating, then a magnificent scene with a little cartoon skier
being drawn on the precious canvas as a proof of friendship.
Performances all fit like a glove.
Courtney fussy, Scott cringing and placating, Finney blowzy but
the sparkle untouched. Great
great great. I cant think when
I’ve hear a London audience react so freely.
Shared sustained laughs, spontaneous applause, even cheering
at the calls. Loads of fun. I even had a box which was limited view (not bad) and made me a
close-up spectator to both play and house.
Home happy. Thursday, December 5 Another
comfortable day. I can’t believe
I leave London tomorrow. Last
day in London. What would I
ever do if I though it would be my last chance to be in London? I treat it as I do NY, comfortable, ruts and
routine. A tiny bit of indulgence
-- nice restaurants, modest food -- mixed with just tramping around
outside, eavesdropping and a night/day at the Theatre.
No. make that a lot of indulgence.
Fun for me. Started
this morning with a stop at Westminster Abbey shop to get Xmas gift
for Johnny, traditional hymns, tapping into his retro taste. Then walked through Green Park to the BTA office to book a hotel
in Stratford. Done. Then on to Leicester Square (gee!) for tickets.
Stood behind pompous but informative guy who works the TKTs booth
in Times Square. Listened happily to his gossip, then got a
ticket for the matinee of Martin Guerre.
Lunch at Covent Garden then on to the 3pm show. My seat turned out to be second row center
and the show was fun. Maybe
not at the Les Mis level, but slick, moving, and good music. I’ve seen the lead Iain Glen somewhere else. Can’t think where. Others also good. I went
out really charged up. Walked
up Regent Street admiring Xmas decorations and lights while ignoring
the shops. There was a tube
accident “passenger under a train” at Oxford Circus so I walked to Bond
Street and bypassed the mess. Out
to Gran Paradis for dinner, a great (well, fine) Italian restaurant
just around the corner on Wilton Street.
Quiet when I got there around 8:15, but crowded up later with
a urban crowd. Yuppie couple impressing her parents on one
side (all dressed in black), and patronizing older man with early twenties
guy. Young man talked about
live-in girl; older man advised, sourly, against being “hitched.” Creepy. A
bit of seduction perhaps? Home
happily to relax and pack. Friday, December 6 Another
nice one. Went to Mass at 8am
at Westminster Cathedral. Gloomy,
cold and obviously a small crowd of regulars.
No heat. Then puttering
around and Airbus to Heathrow. Picked
up the car and despite the Philadelphians obviously traumatic driving
experiences, tootled off comfortably to the M25 and M40.
Lunch on the road, then Stratford around 3pm.
Went
first (gee) to the theater to get tickets -- I’d seen that the theater
was dark on Sunday AND was rotating repertory plays and would be dark
early in the week -- then just to the outskirts to my guesthouse. (Main roads and not too hard to find on the map.) Brook Lodge. Light, very pleasant room and even the built-in shower is reasonable.
Good
dinner at the Opposition Cafe, then on to Henry VIII in the Swan. Good clear production, Paul Esson, Jane Lapotiare,
Ian Hogg. Play made sense and
I enjoyed it. Home latish with
hints of a possible cold. Saturday, December 7 Foggy,
dark day. Met a nice couple
from Cambridge over breakfast and chatted for a bit. It was still fogged in by 10 so I drove cautiously over to Warwick
for the castle. A mostly indoors
exploration. Madame Tussauds
has take oven and done quite nicely.
More emphasis on the Victorian house party stuff rather than
the Elizabethan era, but I suppose that’s driven as much by which part
of the castle is more extensive than by a general breakdown in the intellectual
capacity of the visitors. Thorough
tour, then lunch in the on-site restaurant.
Spent the early afternoon meandering around the town of Warwick,
still in the fog. Came back
to Stratford for tea then a nap. Dinner
in town, then Much Ado about Nothing with Alex Jennings and Siobhan
Redmond. Lots of fun. Missed the terrible sadness of the middle section,
but the watch clowns were right on and the sharp-tongued jesting stayed
away from petulance. A good
time. Sunday, December 8 Seriously
Shakespeare day. First mass
just across the road. Then around the corner to Anne Hathaway’s cottage
which, I think, I’d never visited.
The postcard view fades a bit in December, mostly into dank chill.
Still it’s got the olde quaintness.
There were some old photos circa 1890 when it looked rougher
and more overgrown. Now it’s
thoroughly manicured. On
to town for the birthplace and exhibit.
Nice to visit when it’s so quiet.
Not that I was alone, but there might have been only ten or people
there. From there I walked over
to Nash’s house/New Place, another site I’d missed in the past. It’s where W.S.’s daughter ended up living.
Clearly more upscale, bigger rooms and windows.
An elaborate knot garden and grand garden out back.
The “New House” owned and lived in (in retirement) by W.S. was
next door, but torn down by an owner with tax problems.
Bah. Lunch,
then walked over to Holy Trinity to pay respects at the grave. Then nice warm tea. All
of the sites are a bit sterile -- a bit like the cleaned up Ellis Island
-- but worth the effort of visiting slowly if only to put you in mind
of the plays. It’s nice too
to see that Shakespeare wrote apparently without too much trauma. No suffering artiste stuff. Back
again to the Opposition Cafe for dinner. Monday, December 9 Gray
and foggy to start out. I drove
off through the Cotswolds and promptly headed off course to Banbury,
further east (and north!) of where I want to be.
Can’t blame the fog, I just missed a route sign. Slanting back took me to Stow around 11am.
Asked the tourist office to book a hotel for Bath, then wandered
around town browsing while they worked the phones. Circled back to pick up my reservation, then
had a pleasant lunch and hopped back in the car. I’d
thought of driving through Broadway but decided that would be too much
off course. Just as well. As I headed south I noticed a sign for Bibury
and made by detour there. Maybe
ten miles round-trip along dirt tracks, but glad I did it. Funny that I’ve missed it before. Village is tiny and pretty. The Bibury Court looks grand, especially with
the expanses of fields and grounds all around. The hotel even backs up on the row of “National Trust” cottages.
Wish I could conjure a visit with Cynthia and Chuck!
Back
on the road having lots of fun in my little stick shift Escort. Weather lightened a little, even providing
a burst of sun glare at one point coming into Bath. I was searching desperately (well, carefully) for street signs,
couldn’t find a one. So I just
went with the flow of traffic. Turns
out I was on the exact route and the first sign I recognized was for
the hotel itself, Siena Hotel on Pulteney Road.
Not bad for blind (!) luck. Hotel
is dandy. I have a huge room
in front with a double and twin bed, ten foot ceilings, and a bath with
-- hallelujah -- a real English tub.
And an armchair. Who
knew? I’ll use this as base until I head back home.
Modest hotels don’t get any nicer.
I was settled in by 4-ish so had time for an aimless walk through
town. It feels just right to
be here. Lights over the shopping
streets. Otherwise Xmas is low
key. One thing I can’t forgive
Bath: the Disney Store on Milsom
Street. Tell me it isn’t so.
Otherwise very appealing. Back
to the hotel for a hairwash, tub soak, and cuppa. Dinner near the Theatre Royal, a ten minute walk back to the hotel. Tuesday, December 10 Lousy
day for weather. Otherwise fun
crawling around Bath. Stayed
dark, gray and drizzly all day. Dar
(lights on) by 3:30pm. Not exactly
postcard weather. Early morning
at Bath Abbey where I happened to hit a rehearsal preview of the Christmas
choral service. Started walking
all over, especially the Circus and Royal Crescent.
Grand, even with the cars and drizzle.
Wanted to sweep along in a non-Regency gown feeling elegant. Settled for jeans and rain parka. I have trouble keeping my eras straight.
Late morning I ended up at the (Upper) Assembly Rooms and Costume
Museum. I’d love to do an event
-- filmed -- in the Assembly Rooms. It’s work great and be an absolute hoot.
Only sympatico types invited. Good
lunch at an Italian restaurant followed by more strolling. The museum at the Royal Crescent is unfortunately
closed for the winter, so I went back to the hotel around 2:30 for a
nap. Out
again along Great Pulteney Street, Laura Place, etc. Easy to picture Jane Austen scenes all around. Out once more for dinner and now dropping off. Wednesday, December 11 Low
key day. Still gray and almost
drizzly. After breakfast, took
pleasant drive to Wells. It’s
only about seventeen miles. Walked
a bit around town and the market, but focused mostly on the Cathedral. Overall it’s flat, low and square (compared
to, say, the French cathedrals). The
fabulous hourglass arches supporting the central tower are still wonderful.
I wish they’d been left open, but it’s closed off by the organ
and quire. The
Chapter House and the flowing stairs up to it are the most dramatic
and moving bits of architecture around.
As a benefit of being here in December, I was alone, truly alone,
in the whole Cathedral, Chapter House and cloisters.
Lunched
in the cafe in the cloister. It’s
quite beautiful with stone arches, vaults, white and clear paned glass
on one side, polished wooden tables and benches.
It must be a big luncheon stop for the retirement crowd -- I
was a good twenty years younger than the crowd.
Delicious food and modest prices. Back
to Bath by mid-afternoon and classic tea at Canarys. Then a nap and some laps in the tub. Dinner at an excellent restaurant on Pulteney Bridge, new with gay
and fashion connections. Food
was delicious and the staff friendly.
Not much business yet. Hope
they do OK. Thursday, December 12 Used
the day to just hang around Bath. Weather
still as dull as it has been. Walked
all morning, north over the bridge to the London road, up over the top
to the Royal Crescent, back and forth through the gravel walk and Victoria
Park, around the Circus, then browsing through the shopping areas.
THEN along the riverbank. Lots of fun to be moving moving moving. Lunch (mediocre) at the Empire Hotel in the
conservatory next to a radiator. Atmosphere
fine, food, blah. Back
for a nap and to drop off the camera.
Not an appealing photo day to say the least. Teas in the tasteful grace of the Pump Room. Dinner at Sally Lunn’s house, the oldest --
1680 -- in Bath. Food was good
despite the tourist status. Service
was very pleasant and the atmosphere emphasizes candlelight. Got crowded around 8:30. Sophisticated
Bath dines late. Friday, December 13 Last
day, boo hoo. Raining a bit
when I drove off from Bath after breakfast.
Headed east, not sure where I’d stop along the way. Noticed signs for Avebury along the way so
I took a detour for a visit. Almost
rain when I got there, but I liked it much better on this return trip
anyway. The ditch is astounding in scale, while at
certain points the standing stones seem to run off into the horizon. If I’d planned it all differently, I’d have
walked to Silbury Hill -- a man made mound -- or some of the other barrows
and henges in the area. As it
was I walked a good bit around the rings and village.
Off off off season the village becomes almost invisible. There was a stillness and wildness today that
fit quite well. (It rained and
was deserted on my other visit so who knows how the mood or MY mood
was different!) Weather
cleared somewhat as I left, clouds breaking up, but raw and cold. Drove on to Marlborough where I had a pleasant
leisurely lunch. Stayed on the
A4 until Reading where I reluctantly joined the speeding hordes on the
M4. Maybe 45 minutes later -- less -- I was lucky
enough to find the back entrance to Heathrow and returned the car without
having to tensely weave my way past the Concorde roundabout in front
of the terminals. Checked
in before 4pm which meant a long wait in the Admirals Club before my
6:30 flight. Security keeps
getting thicker and slower with every flight.
Lots and lots of hand baggage checks, but after a second x-ray
check they let everything through.
No taking out batteries, etc. so I guess there’s no particular
alert on right now. Home soon. |
||
| back to personal | ||||